Topic: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

If you have not attempted to dismantle a lens before then I would suggest that you do NOT start with one of these !

First step, remove front lens housing:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/ramon-uk/step1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/ramon-uk/step2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/ramon-uk/step3.jpg

If you are only cleaning the lens then clean the rear lens in situ, ignore the bit about removing the rear cover tube
(the bit with the tripod mount on) and just remove the lens mount and rear light baffle for easier access.

If you want to clean and re-lubricate the focussing threads then most of the thread can be accessed by sliding the rear cover tube forwards.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/ramon-uk/step4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/ramon-uk/step5.jpg

You can now clean and lubricate most of the thread and you may not need to dismantle any further.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/ramon-uk/step6.jpg

If you want to completely dismantle the focussing screw then you will need a special tool.

I attacked an old spanner with my angle grinder and made one in about 15 minutes,
the handle has to be offset as you have to put it in at angle to reach inside the tube.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/ramon-uk/step7.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/ramon-uk/step8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/ramon-uk/step9.jpg

If you want to completely unscrew the focussing mount there is now nothing to stop you, otherwise do NOT turn it.
I had to remove mine because someone had attempted to lubricate the lens by putting oil down the end of the rear
cover tube, all this did was to make the felt seal swell up and make it all even stiffer.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/ramon-uk/step10.jpg

That's it, when putting it back together you will have to make sure all parts go back to exactly the original positions
because all the grubscrews locate into pre-drilled holes on the threads and if you don't get them right they stand out
above the surface.


Good Luck

Ramon

Statistically, 6 out of 7 dwarves are not Happy.

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

Extremely useful Ramon. Thanks for sharing and I hope you'll put them back.

For sale
Contax PC Auto Bellows + Contax slide copier
http://forum.manualfocus.org//viewtopic.php?id=18640

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

It's all back together and working.

The only trouble is that it's extremely nasty foggy weather here and I can't see further than about 50 feet,
not the best weather in which to test a telephoto lens sad

Ramon

Statistically, 6 out of 7 dwarves are not Happy.

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

For crying out loud, what is it with Russians and microscopic screws?
It's like everything is built with the idea "Why would anyone want to open it?" in mind.

Lasse Nylund
Canon EOS 1D, 20D, Sinar Norma 4x5"
35mm: | Vivitar 20/3.8 | 35/2.4 Flektogon | 50/1.7T* Planar | Nikkor-H 85/1.8 | 135/3.5 Sonnar |
LF: GX 90/6.8 Optar | Rodenstock-Ysaron 105/4.5 | SK 121/8 Super-Angulon | 125/6.8 Dagor | GX 135/4.7 Optar | 150/9 Weitwinkel-Dagor | 180/5.6 Symmar | 180/6.8 Dagor | JML Optical 209/8 | SK 210/4.5 Xenar |  240/5.6 Symmar | 360/4.5 Berthiot

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

Uusilehto wrote:

For crying out loud, what is it with Russians and microscopic screws?

Yes, I'm afraid this lens is a classic bit of Russian over-engineering.

You end up with 3 sets of grubscrews which are all different thicknesses, and the difference is not that obvious to the eye.
If you put a thin one in the wrong hole it's a real struggle to get it out.

To make matters worse the ones that go in the front of the lens are made with some non-ferrous material so you can't pick them up
with a magnetic screwdriver and have to faff about with tweezers trying to get the screw to stand in the hole on a curved surface and then get
your screwdriver in the slot before it falls out.

great fun, but worth it in the end.

Ramon

Statistically, 6 out of 7 dwarves are not Happy.

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

Dip the tip of your screwdriver into ThreeBond adhesive and then put the screw onto the end of the screwdriver. Working with these tiny screws is much easier this way. Clean off any adhesive residue from the barrel with a cotton swab and alcohol. Better yet, I use the end of a paper clip to cap off the tops of all screw holes with a tiny drop of ThreeBond in the hole. This protects the screw heads from rust.

--Michael

Visit Adaptall-2.com for information about vintage Tamron manual focus lenses.

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

TamronSP wrote:

Dip the tip of your screwdriver into ThreeBond adhesive

Sounds like a good idea, but I have never heard of ThreeBond in the UK, what sort of adhesive is it ?

Ramon

Statistically, 6 out of 7 dwarves are not Happy.

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

Very nice Ramon. I will save this in my booklet for the future. Thanks for the view.

By the way, what does AS-IS mean?....It means Broken/Useless/Hidden damages. Nobody want's to drink out of a dirty glass, but they want you to take a picture with it. People can be funny, don't you agree? Still searching for the Golden Lens!

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

I only did this lens once, but I had the Snaiper version (almost the same, extra knob on front for focussing), not a nice lens to take apart but fortunatly pretty straight forward (as long as you write down what you are doing or making shots of it)

Nice work :-)

Have Snaiper Will Travel

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

Hi Ramon
can you re-upload the pics?
i need to take apart mine for a good clean

Thanks in advance

Tak

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

tptram wrote:

can you re-upload the pics?

I would if I still had them, I had a major cleanup a few weeks ago and deleted them.

What I can remember is that to get the front lensgroup off you need to remove the 3 grubscrews on the barrel near the front then turn the front end to unscrew it from the body.

The rear group is more difficult and you will need a long spanner to remove the locking ring that is set deep within the back end.

If you have any problems give me a shout and I'll see if I can help.

Ramon

Statistically, 6 out of 7 dwarves are not Happy.

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

thanks
i will try it, wish me luck
Thanks for the offer
Tak

Last edited by tptram (2007-04-08 19:22:00)

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

Ramon..  do you still have these pictures.... 

My lens is not doing focusing to infinity. Its almost reaching (around 70-90m). Just a few mm assembly movement can help.
(although I have Tair-3, but I think all are same in construction design)

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

someone would have a copy of the missing photos? I need to disassemble a recalcitrant thank you

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

Hi,

I'm trying to take apart a tair-3a for lubrification of the helicoid and infinity focus adjustement. Now I've removed everything I could on the rear end and I would really appreciate some guidance.

Some pics.

If I understood correctly, the focusing thread is just under that hood near the top. How do I remove it?

http://img.campouze.org/1ZW/tair-3a02.jpg

Do I have to twist these two yellow things one way or another? Can I remove the hood before doing this?

http://img.campouze.org/8WW/tair-3a05.jpg

http://img.campouze.org/OKV/tair-3a08.jpg

Any help is appreciated.

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

Icebird .... sorry I don't have the pics, but I do just about remember taking the lens apart.

Whilst I don't have the original pics, I do have the home made spanner.

To remove the back end the spanner is inserted into the notches shown in your picture inside the tube and unscrewed in normal anti-clockwise direction.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/ramon-uk/tairspanner.jpg

Approximate measurements of my spanner (it is actually an old open ended spanner that I butchered, not pretty but it worked)

Just to avoid confusion from my bad drawing the  48mm shown on the jaws is the outside measurement, or 44mm between the 2 fingers.

Last edited by ramon (2009-09-01 21:12:04)

Statistically, 6 out of 7 dwarves are not Happy.

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

Hi Ramon,

Thanks a lot for your answer.

I have one question left : can I remove the narrow part on the end of the tube before attacking the notches?

Here's a pic :
http://img.campouze.org/4zX/tairback.jpg

Inserting a spanner in here would be much easier without this in the way.

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

icebird wrote:

Hi Ramon,

Thanks a lot for your answer.

I have one question left : can I remove the narrow part on the end of the tube before attacking the notches?

As far as I remember I don't think you can, although you may get part of it off you cannot remove enough to get a clear path to the notches which is why the handle of the spanner is offset.
You have to put the spanner in at angle to get through the back plate, once through you can straighten up.
The spanner needs to be quite strong, mine is about 4mm thick, because you may need to use a pair of pliers on the handle to get sufficient leverage

Statistically, 6 out of 7 dwarves are not Happy.

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

Okay, I followed your advice and report some progress!

http://img.campouze.org/tQE/tair-half-helicoid.jpg

I've got my father to hold 2 while I was unscrewing with the spanner, but it only unscrewed the back tube you mention in your first post (who in the world tighten these things so much, by the way. This is a lens, not a space rocket, dammit..).

After that I told him to grab 3 while I hurt myself turning the damn spanner. It didn't move.

The next best choice seems to be 1. What does your experience tell you about this?

Meanwhile I'm going to make my spanner a longer handle.

Thank you anyway!

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

Oh dear, I wish I still had the pictures, if I could remember more it would help.

All I can say is that I started on my lens by sorting out the front end first so you might have to remove No 3 and No 4 in your pic so that you can get No 2 off,The front end is simply locked on with grubscrews.

I guess I was lucky with my spanner because the ring wasn't too tight.

Keep trying and do keep us posted.

Statistically, 6 out of 7 dwarves are not Happy.

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

Okay I've officially given up.
I tried once more unscrewing the thing with some specialised tool (my dad's a mechanic, he's got an oil filter chain wrench), only to bend my 5 mm spanner (made from concrete iron).

That said, what was causing the most friction wasn't the helicoid, but the sliding tube (number 2 in the last picture). So I sprayed some silicon lube (that's not something you buy in a sex shop, ok?) where I could. It's a little bit better now, particularly on the infinity end, where it used to become almost stuck once you got there.

Anyway, hope you (I've checked the statistics on the pictures, there are quite a lot of people visiting this thread) have more luck than me!

And a few pictures, contrast/lightness edited. (click to enlarge)

http://imgur.com/oCmI2l.jpg

http://imgur.com/jeX95l.jpg

Quite a nice lens for its price!

Last edited by icebird (2009-12-23 10:34:03)

Re: Tair 3A 300/4.5 dismantling

Hi! I have found one of these at a car boot sale - however, it needs a good clean... Any chance you could repost the pictures? They no longer show up in the thread...

Whereabouts are you in Kent? I am in Canterbury...

Yours,

Jez