Topic: MC Rokkor PG 58 1:1,2 adapted to Nikon F mount

Hey, there.


As promised, here's the report on my adaptation of this beast to Nikon F mount.

Before anyone goes crazy, stop: It

Last edited by glimavitor (2010-03-26 14:20:51)

Nikon: D7000; F2; F4; FA. RMC Tokina 17/3,5; Ensinor 24/2,8 Macro; Nikkor: S.C. 50/1,4; AI-s 28/2,8; Micro 55/2,8; 80-200/4; S. E: 35/2,5; 100/2,8; Viv. S. 1 105/2,5 Macro (Kiron); MC Rokkor PG 58/1,2; Canon FD 300/4; Pentacon 135/2,8.
Pentax: K20D; CZJ Flek 20/4; SMC Pentax: A 28/2,8; 50/1,7; M 50/1,4; Tak. 50/1,4; Tamron Adall 2: SP 90/2,5 Macro; SP 60-300; 35-70/3,5 CF; .
And some others...

Re: MC Rokkor PG 58 1:1,2 adapted to Nikon F mount

Very creative to use the heatshrink! I actually have never seen heatshrink tubing so large.

If the lens focuses "beyond infinity", you can fix it by adjusting where the focusing ring is attached (remove the name ring to reveal screws). I believe I posted the procedure in an earlier thread about converting this lens to EOS format.

Re: MC Rokkor PG 58 1:1,2 adapted to Nikon F mount

Looking at your test shots, I wonder if you have reassembled the optical elements properly.

Some light falloff (vignetting) is normal at f/1.2, but you should not see such soft corners, especially on the APS-sensor D40. A common error in working with lenses is to accidentally reverse an element.

Re: MC Rokkor PG 58 1:1,2 adapted to Nikon F mount

so can you focus on infinity now?
no mirror problem on Nikon FM?

Canon 350D, Nikkor 10.5mm 2.8,  CZ Distagon 18mm 4, Oly 21mm 3.5, CZ Distagon 28mm 2.8, CZ Distagon 35mm 1.4 HFT,  Canon 17-40l, CZ Planar 50mm 1.4 ZF, Tomioka 55mm 1.2,  CZ Planar 85mm 1.4, Canon 135mm 2 L
my galleries: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97676069@N00/,
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Re: MC Rokkor PG 58 1:1,2 adapted to Nikon F mount

awldune wrote:

Very creative to use the heatshrink! I actually have never seen heatshrink tubing so large.

Actually, it's not the largest I've seen, I have a leftover piece that's about 5 cm... each side! In fact. it's a piece of crap, it's so thick it does'nt shrink well, you almost have to set it on fire for it to shrink mad...

Anyway, the one I've used was a little too small, had to stretch it a little before placing it in the lens wink.


awldune wrote:

If the lens focuses "beyond infinity", you can fix it by adjusting where the focusing ring is attached (remove the name ring to reveal screws). I believe I posted the procedure in an earlier thread about converting this lens to EOS format.

Well, in fact it should focus a little shy of infinity. Before trying, I've measured everything, and there was a couple hundreths of mm I would have to shave off the new baionet. As it was already a little on the thin side, I've decided not to do it, as it would make the counter-sinking of the screws even more dificult (or rather, the whole thing might become too thin/fragile hmm).

Anyway, wide open, my D40 confirms focus on the horizon, and I suppose if I would ever want a landscape picture with this lens, I would stop it down a tad and make up for the rest with the hyperfocal DOF...


Cheers!

Last edited by glimavitor (2009-08-20 13:42:00)

Nikon: D7000; F2; F4; FA. RMC Tokina 17/3,5; Ensinor 24/2,8 Macro; Nikkor: S.C. 50/1,4; AI-s 28/2,8; Micro 55/2,8; 80-200/4; S. E: 35/2,5; 100/2,8; Viv. S. 1 105/2,5 Macro (Kiron); MC Rokkor PG 58/1,2; Canon FD 300/4; Pentacon 135/2,8.
Pentax: K20D; CZJ Flek 20/4; SMC Pentax: A 28/2,8; 50/1,7; M 50/1,4; Tak. 50/1,4; Tamron Adall 2: SP 90/2,5 Macro; SP 60-300; 35-70/3,5 CF; .
And some others...

Re: MC Rokkor PG 58 1:1,2 adapted to Nikon F mount

awldune wrote:

Looking at your test shots, I wonder if you have reassembled the optical elements properly.

Some light falloff (vignetting) is normal at f/1.2, but you should not see such soft corners, especially on the APS-sensor D40. A common error in working with lenses is to accidentally reverse an element.

Well, two choices:

Those test shots were done while I was still making the adaptation, before the heatshrink tubing idea came to my mind. It's possible at that moment the rearmost element was reversed (don't think so) or poorly seated (that seems more likely to me).
Also, at that time I still hadn't cleaned all the fungus, even if that should not play a major role in that predicament wink.

But I dont't think that's the case. Those shots were done with a macro tube (forgot to mention it, sorry roll), and the softness in the corners is actually out of focus leaves (the front of the lens was probably about 4 to 5 cm from the grass big_smile).


Anyway, right now I see no problems. Took these during my lunch hour (D40, iso 200, no sharpening, normal contrast, normal saturation).

@1,2:

http://pimpandhost.com/media/simple/23328/thumbs/e3b703f26388_1.jpg

@2,8:

http://pimpandhost.com/media/simple/23328/thumbs/749134f1e4fc_1.jpg

@5,6:

http://pimpandhost.com/media/simple/23328/thumbs/0060c3a24bde_1.jpg


Cheers!

Last edited by glimavitor (2009-08-20 13:40:46)

Nikon: D7000; F2; F4; FA. RMC Tokina 17/3,5; Ensinor 24/2,8 Macro; Nikkor: S.C. 50/1,4; AI-s 28/2,8; Micro 55/2,8; 80-200/4; S. E: 35/2,5; 100/2,8; Viv. S. 1 105/2,5 Macro (Kiron); MC Rokkor PG 58/1,2; Canon FD 300/4; Pentacon 135/2,8.
Pentax: K20D; CZJ Flek 20/4; SMC Pentax: A 28/2,8; 50/1,7; M 50/1,4; Tak. 50/1,4; Tamron Adall 2: SP 90/2,5 Macro; SP 60-300; 35-70/3,5 CF; .
And some others...

Re: MC Rokkor PG 58 1:1,2 adapted to Nikon F mount

mr_Equator wrote:

so can you focus on infinity now?
no mirror problem on Nikon FM?

As I said earlier, my camera says I do wink. In reality, it should be just a hair short of it...


I did manage to get some star shots, tough. Not that bad at first sight, but haven't analysed them properly yet (too many photos in the hollydays, too little time wink).


So far no problems with the FM's mirror, but also no horizon shots (only portraits and such). As I said, still need to develop the film and check, but I think it never hits the glass, so no problem there smile.


Cheers!

Last edited by glimavitor (2009-08-20 13:43:29)

Nikon: D7000; F2; F4; FA. RMC Tokina 17/3,5; Ensinor 24/2,8 Macro; Nikkor: S.C. 50/1,4; AI-s 28/2,8; Micro 55/2,8; 80-200/4; S. E: 35/2,5; 100/2,8; Viv. S. 1 105/2,5 Macro (Kiron); MC Rokkor PG 58/1,2; Canon FD 300/4; Pentacon 135/2,8.
Pentax: K20D; CZJ Flek 20/4; SMC Pentax: A 28/2,8; 50/1,7; M 50/1,4; Tak. 50/1,4; Tamron Adall 2: SP 90/2,5 Macro; SP 60-300; 35-70/3,5 CF; .
And some others...

Re: MC Rokkor PG 58 1:1,2 adapted to Nikon F mount

I imagine that the fungus caused some of the edge softness. Your second shot is difficult to assess, but it seems better.

If you are not quite reaching infinity, adjusting the focus ring will get you a few hundredths of a mm. It should be enough if you are very close but still short.

You'd know if you were hitting the mirror, because normally the mirror will stay up when it happens.

Re: MC Rokkor PG 58 1:1,2 adapted to Nikon F mount

Hey, there.


Reviving old thread (again, sorry big_smile), to repair the original post about the adaptation. First, here is the beast:


https://nis.nikonimagespace.com/html/gu … DGr-Jp1oKE


This lens is actualy sort of easy to adapt, as the mount itself is a lot of pieces, including aperture coupling lever (i.e., it's thick), so when it comes off (8 screws), there's enough space to compensate for register differences (no pic of old mount, sorry sad).


https://nis.nikonimagespace.com/html/gu … DGr-Jp1oKE

https://nis.nikonimagespace.com/html/gu … DGr-Jp1oKE

https://nis.nikonimagespace.com/html/gu … DGr-Jp1oKE


There is no need to remove the aperture ring (pic 5), as it couples directly to the aperture mechanism (i.e., even without the mount, turning the ring opens and closes the iris).

https://nis.nikonimagespace.com/html/gu … DGr-Jp1oKE


I've used an M42 to Nikon F glassless adapter (~10 €), measured the placing of the screw holes, drilled and counter-sunk, and that was basically it.

https://nis.nikonimagespace.com/html/gu … DGr-Jp1oKE


IIRC, I had to source new screws, as the original ones were too long (also, used only 4, but no problems so far wink).

There was another detail: The new mount's diameter is a little smaler than the aperture ring, so it tends to slide back a little (doesn't come out, but it's awkward hmm). Solved it with (yet again wink) a piece of bent paper clip; It gets between the aperture ring and the mount and keeps it in place. Might be a good idea to lightly lubricate it, though...

https://nis.nikonimagespace.com/html/gu … DGr-Jp1oKE

https://nis.nikonimagespace.com/html/gu … DGr-Jp1oKE



As you can see, with this you get a manual aperture lens (you have to stop down manually for each shot), but I tend to use this beast above f-5,6 (usually at f-2 or 2,8, it's sweet spot IMHO), so no real need for that.

Also, my D40 does not meter at all with manual glass, so I got used to guesstimate shutter speeds, and now with my D7000 I just tell it it is a 58 mm f-1,2 and the camera meters as if it is getting darker outside when I stop down (altough not very acurately, unfortunately sad). As the lens doesn't couple with the camera's aperture feeler, the camera "thinks" I'm always shooting wide open (Problem is it reflects on the EXIF, darn wink).


Hope this is of interest to someone wink.


Comments are welcome. Cheers!

Last edited by glimavitor (2016-08-09 11:15:16)

Nikon: D7000; F2; F4; FA. RMC Tokina 17/3,5; Ensinor 24/2,8 Macro; Nikkor: S.C. 50/1,4; AI-s 28/2,8; Micro 55/2,8; 80-200/4; S. E: 35/2,5; 100/2,8; Viv. S. 1 105/2,5 Macro (Kiron); MC Rokkor PG 58/1,2; Canon FD 300/4; Pentacon 135/2,8.
Pentax: K20D; CZJ Flek 20/4; SMC Pentax: A 28/2,8; 50/1,7; M 50/1,4; Tak. 50/1,4; Tamron Adall 2: SP 90/2,5 Macro; SP 60-300; 35-70/3,5 CF; .
And some others...

Re: MC Rokkor PG 58 1:1,2 adapted to Nikon F mount

Ooopps! Forgot about something:

In the original thread I mentioned something else, that may be very important: The rear element hits the camera's mirror sad.


Or rather, back then it hapened with my Nikon FM, not with my D40 (IIRC). Closer inspection revealed that it was not the lens element itself, it was its retaining ring, only (and only when focused far away).

What people were doing to solve this back then was to shave the ring and/or the mirror itself (in the original Canon 5D, IIRC), an irreversible change I was not fond about.


So, what I ended doing was something else: I removed the retaining ring and held the element in place with some heatshring tubing: Slid it over, heated it and it shrunk to hold the element in place:


https://nis.nikonimagespace.com/html/gu … DGr-Jp1oKE


Then, I just trimmed the excess:


https://nis.nikonimagespace.com/html/gu … DGr-Jp1oKE


(As you can see, by this time I had gotten rid of all the fungus big_smile)).


I was a little worried if it would hold, but it is still perfectly safe after some 7 years (and NOT 7 years in the cupboard big_smile).


Cheers!

Nikon: D7000; F2; F4; FA. RMC Tokina 17/3,5; Ensinor 24/2,8 Macro; Nikkor: S.C. 50/1,4; AI-s 28/2,8; Micro 55/2,8; 80-200/4; S. E: 35/2,5; 100/2,8; Viv. S. 1 105/2,5 Macro (Kiron); MC Rokkor PG 58/1,2; Canon FD 300/4; Pentacon 135/2,8.
Pentax: K20D; CZJ Flek 20/4; SMC Pentax: A 28/2,8; 50/1,7; M 50/1,4; Tak. 50/1,4; Tamron Adall 2: SP 90/2,5 Macro; SP 60-300; 35-70/3,5 CF; .
And some others...